Ooh, Ooh Uffizi

Completely sated from my delicious lunch at ZAZA, I dashed off to the Galleria degli Uffizi.  

The Uffizi houses a variety of schools of Florentine painting as well as Venetian, German, and Flemish art.

Galleria degli Uffizi

Most people love the Impressionists.  What’s not to love about Monet, Manet, Pissarro, Renoir, Gauguin, Degas, Cezanne or Van Gogh? Who doesn’t get a little weak in the knees when viewing Monet’s Water Lilies? Or Renoir’s Dance at Le Moulin de la Galette? My bedroom had numerous Degas ballerinas decorating my walls when I was a little girl.

However, when people view Byzantine art they get an instant reaction. You either love it or hate it.  The paintings have always held special place in my heart. 

I like the innocent quality they have.  The lack of real perspective is one of its charms.  At least to me.  Besides, who wouldn’t like to be portrayed with a golden halo above one’s head?

The Annunciation by Simone Martini

After picking up an audio set, I went directly to the 2^nd floor and inhaled art from the 12^th century, Byzantine and Venetian art. Two of my favorites are Botticelli's  Primavera and Birth of Venus.  I say this tongue in cheek because each painting or sculpture in the museum is like a child of mine.  Each is different and special.  But, I do find myself completely mesmerized by these two.  The audio filled in details, making the artists and the paintings come alive. 

Primavera by Botticelli

Birth of Venus by Botticelli

Every time I visit a museum, I play a silly game.  If I could have any painting in any given room, which would I select?  It’s difficult to pick only one favorite. So, then I changed the rules.  I could pick three.  It didn’t make the choice any easier.  I love them all.  Want them all. Neeeed them all!

Touring European museums is always a little bitter sweet for me. Sweet because of the enjoyment I experience.  But, bitter too, because I know that I will have to leave behind all the art that I cherish.  

I look forward to returning so I can visit Lorenzetti, Giotto, Bernardo Daddi, Ambrogio, Leonardo da Vinci, Ghirlandaio, and Botticelli~  my old friends who I know will be waiting for me.

Venus and Cupid by Alessandro Allori

Annunciation by Leonardo da Vinci

After hours in the Uffizi, I took a break and had a snack on the roof top terrace with views of Palazzo Vecchio, the Campanille and Duomo.  Beautiful art indoors.  Beautiful architecture outdoors.  Talk about eye-candy.  So sweet, so delicious I was sure I was getting a cavity as I devoured all things beautiful in this magnificent city.  Firenze had captured my heart and soul.  I wondered if I did the same to T.F.H.  

I didn't have to wonder for very long. I heard a buzz on my cell phone. A text message from TFH!  I couldn't believe what he wrote.  He said. . .

Who wouldn't love ZAZA?

For those who love food, art and fashion...it doesn't get better than being in Firenze. After my fiasco with Super Salesman, I had worked up quite an appetite. Racing down the street, I paused when I saw ZAZA, a darling restaurant with a curious name and was seated at a lovely table on their patio.

When the waiter saw me wilting from heat, he immediately escorted me indoors. Most restaurants in Italy have charming patios and it’s always my preference to eat outside and people watch. Who doesn’t enjoy dining al fresco, but sometimes an unexpected treasure is inside: either in the bathroom, as I discovered in the Goldenview Open Bar or in the actual restaurant which has many exquisite details from painted ceilings to little Romeo and Juliet balconies seating only two.

The ceiling was outrageously painted. Within the vaulted details were brilliant splashes of color and design.

I was too caught up to eat and meandered around the large restaurant, snapping photos: left, right- right, left and above. What a tourist! But not just any tourist. I was a tourist on a mission: Photograph, eat quickly~American Style~, see another museum and primp and prepare for another date with Tall, Fair and Handsome. Who says you can't have your cake and eat it too? It seemed like I was going to have a feast for my eyes with Italian art and my new paramour. Talk about la dolce vita~Che Bello!

Shopping and Shenanigans

Loggia del Mercato Nuovo

Passing fabulous leather stalls on the way to find a cute restaurant, I’m embarrassed to admit, I stalled a lot, touching and trying on purses,  leather jackets and fur lined gloves.  All perfect accessories for life in the desert.  What was I thinking?

Before I left the States, friends gave me a business card of a leather store in the San Lorenzo neighborhood. Being geographically challenged, I was surprised to locate the building and hoped to celebrate my achievement with a leather present.

The owner had convinced my friends to buy one of his leather jackets.  My friend repeated his sales pitch to me with a quasi-authentic Italian accent, “Do you know how you can spot the difference between real leather and vinyl?”

My friend was clueless, like me.

“Real leather doesn’t burn.  Watch.  I’ll show you.”  Immediately he took out a lighter and tried to ignite the piece of leather. 

That was it!  They were sold and he made a sale.

When I walked into the store, the handsome, smarmy owner behaved like he was the man.  He was full of jokes and stories and chattered away.  Because he was married to an American woman, his English and slang expressions were fabulous and charming.  And truly, he could have convinced me to buy the Brooklyn Bridge if the exchange rate hadn’t been so harsh.   He was a smooth talker and had a line that could cross the continent ten times.

 I mentioned that my friends suggested I visit his store.  He looked at me with a suspicious eye.

Continuing, I said, “They were impressed when you tried to burn your inventory.”

“Ah!  Yes, yes!  What were their names?”

I told him.  “Oh, sure I remember.  They had two daughters.”

“Actually a son and a daughter.”

“Yes, that’s what I meant.  Oh, they were so nice.  Come, I show you the same.” 

And with that, he took matches out of his pant pocket and put the flames all over a leather jacket.

“Impressive, no?”

Now it was down to business:  “Look at this coat.  We just got it in.”  He took a long pole and removed it from a hook in the ceiling.

It looked like it had seen better days.  “No, I don’t want a beige coat. It will show too much dirt.”

Not taking no for an answer, he kept taking down jackets that weren’t  my size, and putting them on me. 

The sleeve length was three inches above my wrist and the shoulders were hanging below mine. 

“Well, it doesn’t really fit,” I said gently, trying to be polite.

“It fits fine,” he said adjusting the shoulders, pulling in the waist.

“Hmmm, no I don’t think so.”

“Okay, How about this one?  It’s the most beautiful jacket here.  Feel.  It’s lambskin.”

It felt dry and looked like a bathrobe on me. But, he was trying so hard.  He made me feel like I had to buy something.  Anything. 

“Well, you like?”

Not wanting to hurt his feelings or show that I didn’t appreciate the fire demonstration, I told him the exchange rate made all the jackets a little unaffordable.  It seemed like a reasonable excuse.

Immediately, he disagreed.  “It’s not expensive.  What was your rate?”

“1.55”

“It’s not 1.55.  Where did you exchange the money?” 

“New York.”

“Where?”

“Chase.”

“Oh, well, that was your first mistake.”  He mentioned another bank and told me the exchange rate was only 1.20, so I really could afford to take home two or three jackets.

“That would be true, if I hadn’t already exchanged my money.  But since I did…1.55 is the rate I got which makes the beautiful jacket one and a half times the cost.”

He looked at me with sad, warm brown eyes.  All I could think of at that moment was that he should convert to Judaism.  The guilt that emanated from his soulful eyes stabbed me in the heart. There was no easy way to way to turn him down.

After thanking him for his time~several times~I told him I was hungry and would think about it over lunch.  I made a quick get-away, raced down the street and found the most unusual restaurant.

Flushed in Firenze

Who knew something as simple as a text message could enhance a new relationship? Modern day technology in ancient Firenze...gotta love it!  And I certainly did when I read:

I had hoped to see you today, but I have unfinished business. Dinner at Borgo San Jacopo at 9?

Well, that put the pink back in my cheeks. Why was I being so sensitive. He was a stranger and we barely knew each other. But there was something. I couldn’t quite describe it. But, it was there.

Art, food, and romance in Firenze within twenty-four hours. Life was sweet. With these new plans, I didn’t mind being alone…at least for the time being.

With a lilt in my step, I forged ahead to the Capelle Medici to tour the Chapel of the Princes, wondering what to wear for dinner. I’m such a girl!



Medici Chapel

The Capelle Medici was a chapel built as a mausoleum for the Medici clan, the most powerful family in Florence. 

Cupola of the Chapel of the Princes

The majestic marble work of Michelangelo’s reclining figures: Night and Day and Dawn and Dusk embellish the tombs of the two Medici dukes: Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino and Guilian, Duke of Nemours.

I marveled at the marble figures and then glanced down at my slender legs. I don't look like that. I've worked out at the gym for twenty years and my legs will never look like that! Michelangelo either had some pretty fierce female models, or I'm just a lean not-so-mean workout machine. Oh heck! I'll always be girlie. So much for muscular quads and abs of steel.

After taking in the majesty of the Chapel, my stomach indicated it was time to eat, but when I walked through the San Lorenzo neighborhood, my eyes said it was time to shop. I’m always at odds with myself. Talk about odd. But I had a date with a handsome stranger and I had hoped to find a little treasure to wear. So, naturally my shopping instincts ignored my growling stomach and I shopped till I dropped.



Frazzled in Firenze

While I was sightseeing and enjoying the Piazza della Signoria, my thoughts were filled with T.F.H:  Our romantic dinner and tender kiss on the Ponte Vecchio. A night to remember.  

Although I enjoyed walking around Firenze, I didn’t understand why Tall, Fair and Handsome didn’t suggest exploring the city together, especially after the wonderful evening we had just shared.  I imagined us walking hand in hand, visiting world renowned art museums and taking a break to sip wine in an outdoor café.  But here I was, all by myself. Alone and disappointed, I could feel the warmth of the Tuscan sun embracing me, instead of T.F.H. 

Left to my own devices, I explored more of the city when all of a sudden I heard my cell phone buzz~A text message. It was from Tall, Fair and Handsome. My heart skipped a beat.