I love to travel.
I mean, I love, love, love to travel. One of the greatest perks for a
writer is traveling to far away, exotic places to conduct research.
My debut novel races through glamorous cities like
Rome, Paris, Vienna and Nice. The main
story begins in Munich, which made me think about having my characters attend
Oktoberfest, especially since I’ve always wanted to be part of the festivities,
too.
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Heidi Goldman in the Englischer Garten |
I had the good fortune of being accompanied by
Ludwig Webel, one of the managers from the tourism department.
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Ludwig Webel, Heidi Goldman's gracious host, holding her gift. |
He was my new friend, guide and walking Wikipedia about
all things involving Oktoberfest and Munich’s history.
Oktoberfest.
The very word conjures up all kinds of fantasies and I, too, let my
imagination run wild. Sure, I could have
watched YouTube, but I wanted to experience the festival with fresh, unbiased
eyes. Take in the sights, smells and the
wonder of it all.
Over six million people from around the world attend
Oktoberfest. The second week is
nicknamed Italian Weekend. Munich is
bursting at the seams with Italians.
Riding the U-bahn during Italian weekend can be daunting. Locals are pushed and shoved in overcrowded
subway trains by their bon vivant comrades and other Oktoberfest visitors.
While that is the sentiment of many local Müencheners,
whose city is invaded for three weeks every year, the rest of the world looks
forward to Italian weekend. These
visitors bring color and warmth to cafés, parks and other public places. And into the beer tents, they bring
exuberance. Throughout the Marienplatz,
Munich’s main square, their love, charisma and engaging conversation spills
over to every neighboring district. They
talk to strangers passing by or sitting near them in restaurants. They don’t notice that no one understands
Italian. It doesn’t matter. Their language and hand gestures seem
universal and somehow everyone understands the gist of their exuberant
conversation.
The Italians love people. They love food. They celebrate life with a joie de vivre that
not many cultures could duplicate. In
the beer gardens, you can hear and see loud discussions, hands moving every
which way, continuous laughter, conversations and discussions where all the
friends talk simultaneously, debating some subject that appears to be as urgent
as life and death. They talk and eat at
once. Forks wave above and around their
heads to make a point between mouthfuls of food.
During Oktoberfest, massive steins are held high
during Ein Prosit, the famous beer drinking song, boisterous toasts culminating
in loud clinking of their heavy steins filled with chilled, foamy brew,
toasting their fellow man and most times new friends at adjoining tables to the
left and right. In a large beer tent, like
The Schottenhamel, filled with ten thousand people from all over the globe,
people begin as strangers and within minutes make new friends at their own
table and surrounding ones.
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Heidi Goldman in The Schottenhamel Beer Tent ~ Oktoberfest, Munich, Germany |
Food is shared and everyone sings in unison to the
songs played by the Bavarian band.
People sway back and forth.
Others dance. A cacophony of
music, animated talking and singing reverberate up to the high pitched
roof. All of that is encouraged by vivacious
Italians, who sometimes run around from table to table encouraging everyone to
participate.
So, how could you not love them and look forward to
their participation year after year? Too
much traffic in the city? An easy trade
off! Their personalities bring a rainbow
of color to Munich, transforming the city into a kaleidoscope of vibrant hue, week two of Oktoberfest.
While the Marienplatz is the major artery of Old
Town, the Italians are the very heart beat---the pulse of the city during
Oktoberfest visits.
The paparazzi love high society tents, like the
Hippodrom
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Heidi Goldman at The Hippodrom Beer Tent |
and the Käfer Tent, but you must be a somebody to get in. The rest
of us have other choices and my new friend and guide took me to the
Schottenhamel tent where all the young, fun loving nobodies of the world would
be partying, getting lost in a sea of Italians, Australians, Canadians,
Americans and other Europeans who return every year to attend Oktoberfest.
Women walk around town or are seen on the U-bahn
wearing dirndls and the men, lederhosen.
This is traditional clothing of Bavaria. Müencheners pride themselves in keeping the
tradition alive. When I saw the men and
women dressed traditionally, I assumed they were going to Theresienweise to
work in the tents, but soon learned that during the three weeks of Oktoberfest,
the locals feel free and comfortable wearing their “tracht.” It’s their way of showing Bavarian pride.
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Escada Dirndl |
Every year Escada designs a few special limited
edition dirndls for Oktoberfest.
American’s often think of the “Brunhilde” type of woman: fat, buxom and dowdy, wearing a big dress and
apron. Surprisingly, the clothes are
youthful and sexy. I was amazed when I
was shopping and noticed a fuchsia suede, mink trimmed busier, laced with
crisscross satin ribbon across the bodice.
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Escada bustier |
At the entrance of Theresienweise, the fair grounds
for Oktoberfest, my eyes widened.
Hundreds of thousands of people were walking around. Children were screaming on wild amusement
park rides with parents looking on.
Colorful flags blew in the wind.
People were eating and drinking at booths, laughing, dancing, and
meandering toward the tents.
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Heidi Goldman at Munich's Oktoberfest ~ Theresienwiese |
My guide gave me two choices: we could walk ahead through the amusement
park, or bi-pass the festival and go directly to The Schottenhamel Tent. I opted to continue walking with the
crowd. I was dying to see all the rides
and booths.
It was already twilight and the flashing neon lights
of the fair, bursting with color were enticing people to buy tickets for
exhilarating roller coaster and amusement rides.
There were so many people walking in all
directions. Some were racing to a
favorite ride, others to a food stall.
As people tried to make their way to the crowded area in front of the
beer tents, there was a kind of unspoken dance among the multitude of visitors:
forward, back, sideways, shove: forward, back, sideways, push.
I noticed young ladies wearing heart-shaped cookies
around their necks decorated with curly-cue icing that read: Tolle Frau! (Super Woman!) The other, Komm in Mein Liebeslaube! (Come to my love nest!) And the third
strawberry blonde darling’s cookie read:
Liebe Mich! (Love me!) Visible
messages inviting men to be their lovers.
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Heart-shaped cookies for sale |
Young girls and older women in their low-cut blouses
and frilly white aprons over knee length dresses had an air of understated
sensuality. So much for Brunhilde! These women looked sexy. Certainly not the stereotype portrayed in
movies.
Naturally Oktoberfest is fun, but the reason for
this annual celebration is in honor of Prince Ludwig, who then became King
Ludwig 1, and his marriage to Princess Therese.
Their celebration included a horse race, and over the years the
celebration grew and grew to what it is today, in Theresienwiese: Theresa’s meadow.
Observing the rides, the people and the splendid
color of the fair was eye candy. To the
left and right were brightly lit tents with neon signs like: The Floh Circus (Flea Circus), Wilde Mouse
Ride and Geister Schloss (The ghost castle ride.)
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Geister Schloss-Ghost castle ride |
Continuing along the dirt path was the House of
Horrors with Frankenstein and his bride tilted on the awning
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Frankenstein's House of Horrors |
and
across the way was Auf Geht’s Beim Schiechtl which has a gruesome presentation
inside on how to behead a human being using the guillotine. Perfect and gory
entertainment for adults and children alike.
My guide pointed to the enormous blow-up Prosceccole
Contrese bottle on top of their champagne booth which had a photograph of a
bearded man. He explained that the
Prosecco was named after mad man King Ludwig 11, who at the age of eighteen
inherited the throne from his grandfather, Ludwig 1, when he abdicated his
position to be with, Lola Montez, the woman he loved.
As we made our way down the end of the rides near
the enormous brightly colored Ferris wheel, my guide pointed, “Look over there,
to the right. There’s The Schottenhamel
Tent!”
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Heidi Goldman at The Schottenhamel Beer Tent |
Without waiting for a response, he said, “Follow me and stay
close.”
People swarmed the doors, pushing and shoving to get
in. Times Square in Manhattan is crazy,
but this was sheer lunacy topped with a certain kind of frenetic energy. People without reservations were determined to
get into the tent one way or another. My
guide grabbed my arm and I squeezed in between the masses of people until we
finally reached the side entrance of the tent.
With one more push, like giving birth, arms from out of nowhere grabbed and yanked us into the cavernous tent.
The door slammed behind all the loud, impatient party go-ers, who would
continue to wait outside, desperate to get in.
We stumbled forward into the tent and headed for the
upstairs balcony that over-looked ten thousand raucous, fun-loving
attendees. The room glowed golden. Around the circumference of the room were
food stalls, offering Bavarian delicacies:
Kasse, Speisen-Ausgabe, Schweinbraten and Hendl. And on the raised platform in the center were
Oktoberfest musicians playing, Hey Baby!
While the crowd from non-English speaking countries and English speaking
countries, sang the lyrics perfectly.
Unfortunately, I can’t sing on key, so I lip-synced
the entire song with gusto.
I looked over the railing in disbelief. It looked like a Josef von Sternberg
production---a visual extravaganza from the high vantage point above the
crowd. Like the movie, The Devil is a Woman, where he used the
horror vacui technique, every space on the big screen just like this
Oktoberfest tent, was completely filled.
Ten thousand people were
singing in unison and dancing with strangers, who would soon become close
companions before night’s end or at least by the next song.
After we were seated in a booth away from the
railing, the oom-pah band began to play, YMCA. All the Europeans, Australians, Canadians,
South Americans suddenly stood up at their seat, in the aisle and on the
tables, singing the lyrics and doing the arm gestures to the noted song. I was shocked to hear American music in a
German beer tent.
By the end of the song, a roar of applause filled
the tent drowning out the beginning of New
York, New York, the next selection.
All that was missing was Frank Sinatra!
The waitress came by with large pretzels. I had to have one and then we ordered two beers, rotisserie chicken and
boiled potatoes.
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Heidi Goldman holding Bavarian Pretzel |
The tent was a vision. Enormous green leafy wreaths trimmed with
small light bulbs hung low from the ceiling, giving a warm amber glow to the
cavernous room. People from
all over the world meandered through the aisles singing, swaying, and dancing
with strangers.
Waitresses carrying six enormous beer steins in each
hand walked carefully through crowds of people delivering the choice beverage
of Bavaria to happy patrons.
Suddenly the Bavarian band played Ein Prosit. The crowd roared. I looked at my guide, confused. He whispered loudly, “It’s mandatory for us
to drink when you hear that song!”
“Far be it from me to break the rules!” I said,
taking a gulp of the cold brew.
|
Heidi Goldman with Ludwig Webel, her gracious host |
“When you hear this song, and you will all night
long, everyone at the table toasts each other and then we take a large sip of
beer.”
The booth to our right was filled with ten
boisterous Italian men who flirted with me incessantly.
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Heidi Goldman's new Italian friends at Oktoberfest in Munich |
They leaned into our booth and initiated
toasts with me and the others at the table.
One of them handed me a tooth pick with a piece of cheese and
salami. How could you not love a guy who
feeds you?
Two playful Italians put on eye glasses trimmed with
blinking lights and swayed in each other’s arms to the music. The most handsome man passed his pair to me
and encouraged me to dance.
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Heidi Goldman dancing with fun glasses in Schottenhamel Tent ~ Oktoberfest |
Having had a
couple of beers, I stood up, arms swaying above my head and shook my body to
the rhythm of Mick Jagger’s, I Can’t Get No Satisfaction.
The Italians continued talking simultaneously, arms gesturing wildly
as the roar of the crowd ebbed and flowed with the music.
The timbre rose to a feverish pitch.
At the end of the evening, the fairground was even more beautiful with bright lights lining the beer tents.
If it wasn’t for the photos and videos, I’d never
believe I really attended Oktoberfest.
Who knew I’d have so much fun conducting research for my novel, but I’d
also get a lesson in history, beer, and a little bit of Italy while attending
Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany.
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Heidi Goldman ~ "Auf Wiedersehen!" |