Good to be the Doge!

Crossing the canal to get to the Doge Palace is fun because for only one dollar you can take a traghetto-an express gondola- that simply takes you back and forth from one side to the other. During the summer months when the heat is oppressive, a savvy traveler knows not to expend excessive energy walking and to utilize a traghetto, taxi or subway depending on the city, rather than touring on foot.  This is a fairly new concept for me.  It sounds like common sense much like the way we think about Velcro or Post-It notes-They simply make sense.  But, in the past I always vacationed like I was on monster steroids.  Talk about a power vacation. By the time I’d come home, I really needed a vacation.  I was exhausted.  And that was a good thing.  I didn't have a bucket list for the city because I inhaled and consumed all of it.  But to be in Italy during high heat and still keep the pace is insane…even for me.

Fortunately, the evenings are mild and lovely.  As the sun sets, the heat of the day subsides and people walk around with more exuberance.  Restaurant greeters are playful and gregarious, trying to entice tourists to dine at their cafés.  It’s a leisurely time to sit back, talk about the sites that were enjoyed during the day and sip a Pino Grigio as you plan the next day’s outing.

Some people are spontaneous and don’t like structure.  I always have an elaborate plan, more of an extensive laundry list really, but I’m spontaneous enough to change course midstream  if something more interesting comes along.  During peak months, it's helpful to buy tickets to popular sites ahead of time to avoid wasting time standing in line, but by doing so, you risk the serendipitous moments that always occur if you would just stop and look past your travel guide or camera lens.

OFF TO THE DOGE PALACE

All I can say is:  It's Good to be the Doge!  I wouldn't mind having digs like that.  Although, not the jail cell...I was already staying in the piccolo jail-sized hotel...but a palace...oh, yeah baby!  That's more my speed.  Except, of course with central air conditioning.  Sweating is oh-so unattractive.

Initially, the Doge Palace was considered to be more of a castle than a palace with its fortified towers, defenses and surrounding canals...not an easy building to siege back in the day. 

Over the centuries, the Palace functioned as the residence for the Doge, his family and security guards; offices of the government, administrative offices and site where court sentences were passed for criminals. The interior was elaborately decorated from marble floor to gilded ceilings encasing magnificent artwork.

Ceiling detail of the allegory of the League of Cambrais in the Sala del Senato

Through the years, many natural disasters like earthquakes, lightening and uprisings occurred. The formidable complex had to change and adapt.  Fires destroyed various rooms as well as works by Bellini, Carapaccio, Veronese and Tintoretto. Eventually the building was restored and long story short-the style is considered to be flamboyant Gothic.  It truly is beautiful with its exterior decorative arches culminating with the detailing on the roof, which reminds me of  the intricate scalloped  lace work you find on Burano Island.

As I visit this magnificent landmark, I am captivated by the works of Tintoretto, Veronese and Carpaccio which flood the building from floor to golden over-the-top hand carved ceilings.  Visual eye-candy.



Discovery of Arianne by Tintoretto



Rape of Europa by Veronese



The Lion of San Marco by Carpaccio



The Sala del Senato with the intricate ceiling enveloping masterpieces and the Great Council Chamber are two of my favorite rooms.

Sala del Senato

By contrast, the corridor leading to the prison is narrow and dark.  The rooms, austere and confining.  I can only imagine how the prisoners must have felt.

Once outside, I looked for the Bridge of Sighs-another photo opportunity,  but it was missing.  How could it be missing?  On second glance, I realized, I was looking at it…or what was it, but the bridge was completely surrounded by advertisements, almost hiding the famous landmark.  

People have spoken of this well known monument with reflective sadness because it was here that  prisoners would cross it to go either to court or return to the prison cell while stealing one last look at the magnificent view of Venice from the small windows - A harsh reminder that they would no longer have freedom or a life in this magical city.  I can't help but sigh when I look at the present day Bridge because this is how I remember it: