Jewish Ghetto Walking Tour~Venice

Regardless of your religion, the Jewish Quarter is a must-see. The charming neighborhood has darling shops, cafes, and of course synagogues.

 I’ve been on the ghetto tour several times and was amazed to find I was one of the few Jewish tourists.  The word ghetto does not signify slum as it does in the US. "Ghetto" is derived from "gettare," which means to caste in metal.  Originally the Jewish Ghetto was where many metal foundries were established and ultimately the word ghetto became synonymous for Jewish Quarters throughout European cities.

Cathedrals in Europe are monumental structures compared to synagogues.  Although diminutive in size by comparison, synagogues are regal in architectural design and steeped in centuries of tradition.

In the Jewish museum, tickets are bought for a tour of 2 or 3 synagogues. Depending on the season you will tour a few of these: Scola Canton, Scola Italiana, Scola Spagnola, Scola Grande Tedesca, and Scola Levantina.



German synagogue: Five arches represent the five books of Torah

 The Synagogue Scola Italiana (1575) has an ornate bima and is surrounded by Corinthian marble columns. It probably is the most austere of all the synagogues in Venice. It was considered to be the "unlucky" synagogue because of the fires that took place in 1970 and 1980. Originally the ceiling was blue with stars, but after the fire it was painted white.  Centuries ago panels opened so that congregants could secretly go back through the corridors to worship without the government knowing.

Artists were brought in to refurbish the Scola Levantina (1541) in the 17th century. Because of Christian influences, there appears to be a structure that looks like an alter.  The richness in decoration and materials like marble and cherrywood are sumptuous.  Lamps are from the 18th century and red silk drapes cover large windows.  This synagogue is still used during Shabbat and is often open in the winter because it is one of the warmer places of worship.

While I was waiting for the tour to begin, I walked around the courtyard and viewed the memorial to the Holocaust. I was emotionally drained within seconds of viewing the austere display covering a large brick wall with a barbed wire fence looming above.

I remained in the courtyard sitting on an old wooden bench trying to compose myself.  The memorial was heartwrenching.

Eventually I went into the museum and viewed old Jewish Torahs and ornaments from the 1500's. Within minutes a group of tourists filled the cramped space and  a woman tapped me on the shoulder. “Where are you from?” she whispered.

"The States."

She raised a questioning eyebrow.

“Tucson.”

The husband  glanced over his bi-focals.  “You live in a dangerous city.  Guns and shootings,” he said with a thick Spanish accent.

I knew he was referring to the horrible event that took place back in January of this year when Gabby Giffords and others were shot or killed.

What could I say?  I was speechless for a moment. “Violence is in every city.  Tucson is actually a tranquil little town.  A shtetl of sorts, if you know what I mean.” 

“Vu den,”(of course)  he answered in Yiddish with a wink.

I smiled. 

“I insisted that we come,” the wife said.  “Although I’m not Jewish,  I wanted to learn more about my husband’s culture.  We met when he was a medical student in Mexico. I fell in love with him instantly and his faith…and well, here we are.”

After the tour, I found GAM GAM, a darling Kosher café facing a narrow canal with a bridge sporting a scrolled wrought iron railing. I dined al fresco and had the most delicious salmon with couscous smothered in a tasty spicy sauce.  Heavenly.  If it weren’t for the canal, I would swear I was in Israel, especially with the high temperature and Middle Eastern fare.

By night fall, I strolled into the Piazza San Marco, ignoring both the large advertisements and annoying  vendors and was seated  in front of a Jazz orchestra. 

Sipping an Amaretto, I exhaled slowly and was tapped on the shoulder by Mr. TDH.  He was on a corporate vacation. 

"So we meet again," he said, flashing me a charismatic smile.